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Vermiwhat?

Ver·mi·com·post·ing (v): the use of earthworms to convert organic waste into fertilizer.

There are many methods for composting. Growing up, I always pictured the large heap that often resided in the back yard of neighboring farms. It wasn't until a horticulture course in college that I learned about vermicomposting: composting with worms. Many other composting methods require a backyard, take up a lot of space, and can require up to a year in order to convert organic waste into nutrient-rich soil, but vermicomposting is different. While each method of composting has its benefits, I find that vermicomposting is best for apartment dwellers, as it is small, discrete, and can quickly degrade food scraps.

Size

Arguably the best trait of vermi-compost systems; its size. It is recommended to have 1 cubic foot of space per person in the household. Not a lot! In school, I kept my compost in a bucket under the sink. My parent's keep theirs in the corner of the garage.

Speed

Unlike other forms of compost that rely on microorganisms (and sometimes heat) to decompose organic matter, plant matter in this system is consumed by the worms. They convert it to compost as they digest it. This makes the vermi- method the fastest method of composting. As soon as your bin is full, it takes roughly 6 weeks for the worms to convert the organic matter into fertile soil.

Simplicity

The fact that it contains worms can be intimidating, but trust me it's not as scary as it may seem! Below I've included plenty of resources for getting started on vermicomposting, as well as how to maintain it and what to do when your bin gets full.

Getting Started.

Okay. So you've decided to do the worm thing. What will you need?​

A container:

  • It should be at least 1 cubic foot (28 Liters, 7.5 gallons) per person in the household.

Soil:

  • Pick some up at your local gardening center, or get it from outside.

WORMS!

  • The best kind to get? Red Wigglers. You can order them online, but they typically come in orders of 200-300, and you definitely won't need that many. I got mine from a fishing bait shop. They'll breed to best inhabit the space they're given, so even starting with just a few is alright. Worried about the gender? Don't be! Worms are hermaphroditic (male and female at the same time) so you really only need a few to get started.

Drainage:

  • You'll want to put a few layers of gravel in your bin in order to allow excess moisture to drain out of the soil. After adding the gravel, cover it with a screen or some landscaping fabric. Then add your soil.

  • Looking for an alternative method for drainage? Have your compost container sit on wooden blocks in another container or on a tray. Punch holes in the bottom of the compost container, and then the water (compost tea) can drip out below.

What to Compost.

Time to turn your food scraps into nutritious soil instead of trash!

What you CAN put in your vermicompost:

  • Food scraps (rinds, roots, stems, leaves, cores, husks, seeds, skins, peels, pits, etc)

    • Rotten is okay as long as it is not moldy

  • Egg shells (not egg protein) and rinsed seashells (oyster shells; not shrimp peels)

  • Non-glossy paper (newspaper, envelopes (be sure to remove the stamp))

  • Tea leaves and bags, coffee grinds and filters

  • Dead plants, grass clippings, pine needles, leaves

  • Natural non-treated wood (ash, sawdust and shavings)

What you CANT compost with worms:

  • Meat, fats, grease, bones or oils (no butter, soups, etc)

  • Plastics (recycle that!)

  • Plastic coated paper (like glossy magazines)

  • Stickers, including veggie stickers or  stamps from envelopes

  • Bread or yeast products (no crackers or cakes)

  • Salt, pepper, and other spices (or only in VERY limited amounts)

  • Milk, dairy products

  • Animal droppings

  • Lemon, lime, orange or other citrus peels and juice (in excess this will make the soil too acidic)

  • Onions and garlic (if it makes you smell, it makes your worm bin smell too!)

Helpful Hints.

Happy worms make happy humans.

It smells, what could be wrong?:​

  • Too wet (add sawdust, dry grass clippings, or paper shavings)

  • Too dry (add water, duh)

  • Your Brown:Green ratio is off. This will affect your carbon and nitrogen levels. Because most of what people typically compost is “green” (food scraps), chances are you need to add more “brown” (paper and sawdust, dried leaves, dry grass clippings) to solve your stink problem

  • The little wormies can’t keep up! Give them a break and divert scraps into a second compost bin or the trash for at least a few days.

Other:

  • Have fruit fly problems? Freeze your food scraps for 24 hours to kill off any potential fruit fly eggs hiding in peels

  • Chop items into 1-2 inch sized pieces. It will break down faster and the mix will be easier to stir

  • When bin gets full, find some worms and soil and put them in a new bin to start a new compost. Let the old compost sit without addition, stirring every week. Monitor moisture and add water if needed. After 4-6 weeks, it can be mixed into soil outside as fertilizer! YAY!

Helpful Tools.

Printable guidelines. All of this information on a quick reference sheet!

How to set up your vermicompost bin.

How To Set Up A Vermicompost (Worm Compost) Bin
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